I decided to sell my Sony A6300, but before I could let it go, I had to take it out one final Voyage. So I adapted my 1980s Helios 44M and headed to the long beach aquarium with my family.
There has been something I think all Sony shooters have been waiting a long time for and it’s not more megapixels.
Traveling to Tokyo from California is always great for the first few days because it’s very easy to wake up for the sunrise. I don’t typically wake up until 10am since my lifestyle of working as an editor for an ad agency has made me completely nocturnal. So when you factor in the time difference between California and Tokyo, sleeping in until 5am is perfect for me.
After spending a lot of time in Japan and getting use to the culture shock, I’ve finally begun to see things differently.
So as what happens whenever you get a new camera, you make mistakes until you really learn how to use it.
This was my first mistake with the Fujifilm X-T2 . . .
Pretty much since I got the X-Pro 2 I’ve either been working or stuck inside with the flue. Finally I’m about 90% healed and was able to go out again. This time to the Schindler House in West Hollywood.
It’s a small old house / architectural marvel from 1922, kind of reminds me of old houses in Japan, except it’s been somehow converted into an art installation. In other words, there is a teddy bear sitting on the floor that you’re suppose to interact with and of course a tennis shoe sitting on a podium.
There is a new workflow I’ve been experimenting with. I know on my Fujifilm X100T review and various other articles I mention how good Fujifilm JPEG is and how I often shoot Raw+JPEG or just JPEG and have recommended other photographers to do the same. Well this week I started on something new; shooting just RAW and using the in-camera RAW converter to make my JPEGs out of the photos I like.
When you shoot just JPEG you’re bound to how the camera was setup, and if you shoot just RAW and don’t make your JPEG in camera, you have to rely on Iridient or Lightroom to simulate the look which ends up never being quite the same. You can see here in my RAW+JPEG comparison.
This new workflow has been a lot of fun because it allows you to make as many JPEGs as you want out of the single RAW and you can tweak everything from the film simulator, highlights and shadows, sharpness, colors or even doing some push and pull processing.
Here are some samples of JPEG I’ve made that are SOOC (straight out of camera) with no other post work on them. Including the one above.
Now that work has come to a slow, I can finally get back into the groove of shooting. I’m still catching up on some reviews and testing out new gear while fighting the urge to buy more.
A new 35mm is here from Fujifilm and it’s looking very tempting. The only thing preventing me from pulling the trigger is I just bought the Voigtlander 35mm f1.7 and am still in love with it. Prioritizing is always the challenge especially when running a blog. I don’t make much money off my prints, the majority of my income still comes from editing, but there is that thing were reviews do earn me revenue and you never know what will hit and what will fail.
For example, I spent over $800 dollars on CF cards (maybe more) to test for the Canon 5Dsr memory card comparison, not to mention double that money on SD cards since I buy all of them including the over priced UHS-II cards, plus renting a Canon is over $200 dollars.
Test was done and the results were actually very interesting and informative. However, on the Internet there is already so much noise around the Canon 5DS R, it’s very difficult for any article about it to rise to the top. So patience is key and you can only hope for a return on your investment. But that’s the game and it’s a lot of fun.
In the last year since I started shooting with Fujifilm, I’ve really fallen in love with that street / incidental style of photography. I love and have always missed the classic film look, that’s what I learned with and the best part is, it’s so accessible. You don’t have to travel all the way to New Zealand or Iceland only to take the exact same photo as fifty other photographers. You can do it everywhere and no two photos will ever be the same. It’s exactly what I’ve needed in my breaks between shooting landscapes. I do love landscapes and will always continue to shoot as much as possible, but in between the trips and interesting weather phenomenon, I now have something to focus on.
Just about every evening I have to play this game with the sun as it chases Kalina around the house. No where is safe as it can somehow bend around any corner of our living room.
This time I decided to take advantage of this light with my X100T and shoot some living room photography as Kalina and I battled Mother Nature once again.
I love shooting stuff like this, but it’s not always easy to do while working. As I’m sure you know, it’s hard changing gears into photography mode after a heavy grind. It takes so much patience and you sort of need to get in a rhythm or what you shoot will just be garbage.
I need / want to pull this blog out of being just a tech / gear site. I know that’s what gets hits and I’m obligated to do reviews when I’m sent product, but day to day I’m sure it gets boring for readers.
Now that I said all that, I do have a few cool reviews coming down the pipe. I picked up a Drobo 5D recently that I have mixed feelings about, so I’ll be doing a review on that with a focus on photography. I’m also working on an ultra wide lens showdown with the Sony A7rII, something several people have patiently been asking about and waiting for.
I still really love the X100T. Nothing beats it in my book. I’ve actually been shooting tons of video with it of my new little girl. I know it seems crazy, especially since I have a 4K Sony A7rII that’s amazing at that kind of thing. But at the end of the day, those 4k files are a pain to work with, and the colors on the Fuji when shooting video are just light years better.
A relatively new trend has emerged in the online photography communities over the last few years that involves shooting into the sun or other bright light sources so that the bright light creates star points around it. Also known as sunstars.
I run across a lot of tutorials and tips of people explaining how to do it. Typical they all say about the same thing, shoot high apertures, anywhere from f16 to f22.
While this does usually work, it’s not always the best practice. I find that shooting at higher apertures on many of our high megapixel cameras has a massive impact on overall image quality due to diffraction.