The Meike 35mm f1.7 is a compact manual focus APS-C lens designed for photographers who want affordable image quality in as small of a package as possible. Although the f1.7 aperture isn’t as fast as some of the other lenses available, the smaller aperture allows the lens to produce a more corrected image than some of the faster lenses without the loss of character.
Lens Specs
Focal Length:Â 35mm equivalent to 52.5mm on APS-C cameras
Aperture Blade:Â Rounded 9-Blades
Aperture: f1.7 – f22 de-click
Elements:Â 6 elements in 5 groups
Coatings:Â Multi-coating
Minimum Focus Distance: – 1ft / .3 m
Filter Threads:Â 49mm
Pros – Small, Well corrected, Sharp center, good corners stopped down nice character, nice bokeh, good contrast, and great micro-contrast.
Cons – Some vignetting wide open, soft corners wide open and at f2.8, some coma, strong field curvature.
Order
Meike 35mm f1.7 – Amazon
You can find this lens and compare it to other options by looking at my camera lens lists.
It looks like the Opteka 35mm f1.7 and Neewer 35mm f1.7 are the same lenses as this one.
Meike 35mm f1.7 First Impressions
I’ve been messing around with cheap Chinese lenses for some time now in search of some gems, and I’ve found a few. Like this one. Most of these Chinese lenses have a retro optical formula with nothing fancy or really modern going on. This gives you that very classic rendering that you just don’t see in most modern lenses from big brands.
That’s the good news.
The bad news is these lenses often have absolutely terrible build quality, not just with the way they’re put together, but often the mechanical designs are bad. So what ends up happening is you get some lenses that literally fall apart, or you get strange issues like the focus drifting from an imbalance of internal pressure. Some of my lenses seize up in freezing conditions or get sticky or grinding focus.
Luckily, this Meike 35mm f1.7 doesn’t seem to have any issues. So that’s great. It could just be my copy but, so far so good.
Optically I love this lens. It’s not over-corrected like so many modern lenses. It only has 6 elements so you get a ton of pop and really nice color and contrast. The trade-off is you don’t get perfect corners and edges and you don’t have great flaring resistance. I think lenses should allow for a little bit of flaring unless it’s a utility lens like a landscape lens or something. The right amount of flaring looks great.
Center sharpness is really good, and color, contrast, and micro-contrast are fantastic.
Besides the 7Artisans 35mm f1.2, this is my favorite cheap Chinese lens. It’s not as fast as the 35mm f1.2 nor does it have as wild of character, but it’s a little bit easier to control with a bit nicer image quality and you can shoot with it wide open all the time and enjoy a perfectly rounded 1.7 aperture. Whereas with the 7Artisans 35mm f1.2, it’s a little difficult to always shoot wide open since the lens gets a little crazy, especially when it’s very bright out. Then when you stop down, you start to get some more geometry to the bokeh. Slower lenses like this Meike 35mm f1.7 sometimes have their advantages especially when shooting street photography since it’s a little easier to control the focus at around f1.7. Of course, this by no means is considered a slow lens.
If you’re into collecting cheap Chinese lenses, you could get both the 7Artisans 35mm f1.2 and this lens. Use the 7Artisans 35mm f1.2 for indoor low-light work, then the f1.7 for everything.
Build Quality
The Meike 35mm f1.7 has an all metal construction and it seems like the outer materials are made of aluminum. It’s possible there is also a copper core but I’m not sure.
Focus all happens internally so there are no external moving elements.
The focus doesn’t drift. When you set focus it stays at that spot. The focus also doesn’t stick or grind and it feels really good.
The aperture ring is placed right up against the lens mount so it’s out of the way and you don’t adjust it by accident.
The lens is small, you could probably call it a pancake so it’s a very good low-profile street lens. If you put it on a small APS-C camera or micro-four thirds camera, nobody will think anything of you shooting street photography.
There are 6 elements in 5 groups. I believe they are all glass, so none of those ultra-high refractive polymers. With a 35mm this size with only 6 elements, you’ll end up with some very minor CA and soft corners wide open but you’ll get a ton of character and pop. I personally love low-element lenses when they’re done right. This one is done right.
So far, the build quality is good. Better than most Chinese lenses that I’ve used. But, I think most of these lenses except maybe, Mitakon, Kamlan, and Handevision actually come from the same factory so they may have just been lucky with the design on this one. For the most part, most Chinese lenses are assembled competently, usually, just the design is bad which can lead to problems down the road. Leaking oil on the aperture blades, sticking focus, lenses falling apart, etc.
Meike 35mm f1.7 Review | Technical Overview
From a technical view, this lens isn’t bad at all. You get some soft corners wide open do to a strong field curvature, but they do clear up at those smaller apertures especially if you’re subject is further away where your depth of field is increased. You will get flaring, vignetting, and a little bit of CA as well as some very minor distortion, but it’s nothing severe. It’s all very easy to work with and the technical characteristics balance very well with character.
Sharpness
Center sharpness is really nice with the Meike 35mm f1.7 even when wide open at f1.7. As you stop down to around f5.6 it gets even better. So this is about as sharp as you typically see with APS-C lenses when they’re tuned for center sharpness. You can get a little sharper or a little less sharp, but for the most part, this lens is in the ballpark of good center sharpness.
 I think some people get a little too carried away with how sharp a lens is. It matters with a few styles of photography but not for general shooting. This lens is sharp enough that I would feel comfortable using it for landscapes.
You can see that the center is sharp, but the corners are a different story and there are some weird things that happen.
In the corner sharpness sample below, you’ll notice the vignetting affecting the image at f1.7 and f2 with some softness. By f2.8 vignetting clears up, but then we get some sort of extra softness from some sort of spherical aberration. I actually haven’t seen a lens dip in sharpness this bad as you stop down at a certain aperture. I double-checked my results and it would seem like f2.8 just doesn’t have great corner performance, but it could be from the field curvature.
It’s weird, the lens is sharper at f1.7 and f2, then it drops at f2.8 and f4.
Once you’re around f8 the lens produces some really nice corner performance. If you’re shooting landscapes at f8, you’ll get some great performance.
About the field curvature – It only looks like the corners are bad here because of the curvature to the depth of field. You can focus on the corners and they look nicer, or you can shoot a subject matter that is further away and stop down, and it looks nicer. It’s about getting those corners to be on the same focus plane when shooting close-up objects that’s tricky since the corners will be out of focus, and this is why they look soft. That’s actually what’s happening in this chart here. I don’t focus for the corners when doing my charts and I’m only about 10 feet from this chart so the corners end up being out of focus because of that curvature.
Vignetting
There is a bit of vignetting at f1.7 and f2, but it’s mostly gone by f2.8.
Distortion
There is some very minor barrel distortion.
Chromatic Aberrations
Chromatic aberration issues are very minimal. At f1.7 you can get some in some very high contrast situations, but they will clear up at f5.6.
Art & Character
The Character of this lens is fantastic. You won’t get as crazy or as a fun character as you do with the 7Artisans 35mm f1.2, but instead, you get a little nicer image quality but a little less flaring and bokeh.
I think the micro-contrast of this lens is actually a little nicer than the 7Artisans 35mm f1.2.
One of these days I’m actually going to do some side-by-sides so I can actually see which lenses have the best micro contrast rather than going off just feeling. These low-element primes are all very close though and it’s probably impossible to tell the difference.
Bokeh
The Meike 35mm f1.7 is only an f1.7 lens, but the depth of field is still very shallow. You will see some swirls in some situations and it can get a little edgy or nervous as your subject moves further back from the lens. But for the most part, it’s nice. Very rich and vibrant, the only problem is that it swirls toward the corners and edges.
There is a pretty strong curve to the focus area from center to edge. Most lenses do this a little, it’s just a bit more extreme on this lens. My Voigtlander 35mm f1.7 Ultron also does this.
Lens Coma Bokeh Balls
There is quite a bit of coma and it can cause the bokeh to swirl a bit in some situations.
Flaring
This lens will flare. It mostly only flares when the sun hits the front element from a steep angle. It performs much better when pointing into the sun.
You’ll also get some flaring around artificial lighting if you’re shooting at night or indoors. I think it can look cool, but you will have to be a little careful as the flaring doesn’t always look great.
Color, Contrast & Micro Contrast
The color and contrast are really nice, even along the edges. Often with cheap fast lenses like this, the center is really nice but the corners get pretty bad. This lens maintains decent edges and corners even when wide open, which makes it a very useful general-purpose lens.
 The contrast is very good and the colors look very good as well. There are no strange shifts in color and no color ring patterns.
Micro-contrast is fantastic with this lens. It’s one of the better micro-contrast lenses I have, so you get a ton of pop and tonal details in the colors.
While I do have some Chinese lenses that have really nice micro-contrast, they’re often not as sharp as this one nor do they perform as well in the corners. This makes images seem so crispy and punchy and I love it for black and white photography.
Straight Out Of Camera SOOC
Here are some straight-out-of-camera, untouched RAWs for you who don’t like to use Lightroom. You can of course always shoot JPG to add a look or punch them up a bit depending on your camera settings.
I like to show untouched RAW samples because they show you the true nature of the lens. You could take a pretty bad lens, and do a lot of fancy work in post to make it look good, but with this lens, the images look great right out of the camera.
Tons of contrast, nice pop, and very natural colors. Some minor cast but pretty much every third-party lens does that.
Meike 35mm f1.7 Review | Bottom Line
This is probably my favorite cheap Chinese lens so far. The 7Artisans 35mm f1.2 is also fantastic if you want to have a little fun, but this Meike 35mm f1.7 is just a better general-use lens. The 35mm focal length gives you that 50mm field of view which is incredibly useful and it can work in so many situations.
The corners, edges, and center all perform well with no serious issues besides field curvature. If your subject is far enough away so that the corners are in the same focal plane as the center, the lens will almost be almost completely corrected by f4.
You can’t really go wrong here. Especially since you’re getting an f1.7 which is still pretty good.
Other Cheap Lenses
Other cheap lenses that I like are the 7Artisans 35mm f1.2, and the 7Artisans 25mm f1.8, except the 25mm has a bad build. The 7Artisans 55mm f1.4 is ok but I really prefer the Rokinon 50mm f1.2 ( I know it’s more expensive). The 7Artisans 55mm f1.4 is probably a better option than the original Kamlan but the Kamlan 50mm f1.1 II is great.
Meike 35mm f1.7 Sample Images
Sample images are taken with the Fujifilm X-T3. These were all shot RAW and I later corrected them with my personal Lightroom presets.
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Which one would you prefer this or the handevision 35mm f2.5?
If I was shooting APS-C only I would go with the Meike simply because of price and shallow depth. The Handevision is designed for full frame so you’re kind of wasting money buying a full frame lens just to crop it. But Handevision quality control and build is superior.
Just found your website and I am so glad I finally found a reviewer who actually goes out and shoots pictures I like.
I love your taste and your colors.
Just bought a used XE2 and a Meike 35 1.7 for a total of 250$, can’t wait to test them.
That’s such an amazing deal. The XE2 is an awesome little camera.
I would personally probably start with one lens like this and then eventually get into Minolta glass. Because going down that adapting lens path can be complicated and expensive unless you have a good source of where you can buy those lenses from. I would say almost half my retro lenses I bought off Ebay didn’t last a year. They developed mold, haze, leaked oil or just broke. But I was buying stuff from the 70’s and 80’s. Minolta lenses were next on my list since they are really nice and I think you can get them from the 90s.
Hi. Really liked your post. It’s very helpful to a beginner like me. Due to limited budget i’m in a dilemma on which to choose among xt100, a6000, em10 with all the expensive prime lens line up they have. If I were to go with xt100, and this lens, would the lack of image stabilization (both in camera and lens) be a hindrance to a beginner? How do you guys get over this issue?
Image stabilization has become this weird trend reviewers keep pushing. It’s really, really not a big deal for photography and it’s almost better to have a camera without it because it’s just more moving parts that reduces the overall durability of the camera, it can make the cameras bigger or heavier and drains the batteries faster. I have cameras with it, and I have cameras without it, and there is almost no difference unless I’m shooting in some low light conditions without people where I’m not allowed to use a tripod, or if I’m shooting video it can help.
And the reason image stabilization isn’t needed for photography is because you usually need a fast shutter to stop the action. I’ve been shooting a lot more at a shutter of at least 1/200 lately which image stabilization would have no effect on. Also, you can always get stabilized lenses if you feel you need it, both Sony and Fujifilm have them.
Regarding those cameras you mentioned, I would go with the XT100 or the A6000, you’ll like the larger sensor compared to the em10, it makes a noticeable difference in low light shooting, but I also prefer the aspect ratio more than micro four thirds. But also shop around to see if you can get a good deal on a used X-T20 or X-T2. That would be a really big upgrade.
Got it. Makes sense now. Thanks for the practical explanation.
Xt20/xt2 will be very expensive, even a used one, here in India. But will try.
Also look at X-E3, they go about the same price as the X-T20, but maybe you can find one cheaper. But otherwise, I actually have the X-T100, it’s a really cool camera.
I was about to buy my first lens (the Kamlan f1.1 vs the 7Artisans f1.4) when I saw your reviews. Thank you for taking these! I was just wondering if the Artisans or this Mieke lens has zoom capabilities? Like for taking pictures in events, but you cannot get close to people. I use the Fujifilm XT-100. Thank you!
These do not zoom. This lens fixed at 35mm or 50-55mm depending on what you get. They also are manual focus only.
Oh, thank you for the quick reply! I’m checking out your other reviews and list of Fuji lenses. Thanks again for the informative reviews! Cheers
No Prob!
You right, the lens is awesome.
https://www.instagram.com/p/B0WH335hW67/?igshid=1eon3sgyzx9ik
Nice shot! I left a comment on your feed. 🙂
Thank you for your information. Love your blog
Hi Alik, how I know f/5.6 or f/11? because no number for f/5.6 or f/11 in Meike lens. I’m guess f/5.6 is between f/4 and f/8, is that right? and how about f/11 (between f/8 and f/22)?
Thanks
Yep, you have to sort of guess. That’s one thing kind of annoying about these lenses.
Ah I see, thanks 🙂
Hey Alik, take love from Bangladesh. Here mirrorless cameras aren’t that popular. People mostly use Nikon or Canon DSLRs. They also don’t know about these kinda lens. I didn’t know either. I am interested in photography but couldn’t afford a modern camera. So I just ordered an used Sony NEX 5N body from ebay at 90 USD. How is the deal? Is the camera any good. As, I don’t have a lens right now (not even a kit lens), I want to buy only good all rounder prime lens (can’t afford more) in a budget. How the Meike 35mm 1.7 would be? Thank you. You have become my favourite lens reviewer.
The Meike 35mm f1.7 is a great lens for that. It’s my favorite cheap lens and is just so useful. The NEX 5N is a nice camera for that price. It use to be very popular when it came out.
Hi Alik. The seller recommends 35mm f1.4 the new and better version they said. Now I’m confused as I saw your blog and I love the results of f1.7. 🙂
A lot of people automatically think a faster lens is better. But when lenses are this small making it faster often introducers more flaws.
The f1.4 is cool, but for me personally I don’t need f1.4 from a lens like this, so I prefer the slightly better technical image of the f1.7.
Awesome photos Alik! How do you edit these photos? RAW in lightroom?
For these reviews I always do RAW in Lightroom. I use my own film presets. I’m working on some articles on the process and I’ve been tuning up my presets for sale. But I’ll post a few articles on my B&W and color process hopefully starting this week. I’m deep a project at the Ad Agency so hopefully I’ll be able to get them up this week. I’ll have very little time until December or January until this trailer goes out. So keep bugging me to do it. 🙂
Also, if you want to learn some cool techniques check out Laroque.
He’s got such a cool style that influenced me a lot. He uses a lot of JPG I think. My X-T3 review is also all JPG.
Hi Alik! Thanks a lot for all the time and effort you are putting on this amazing website.
Hope you have a couple.of minutes to give me some advices.
I’m going to get an x-pro2 soon in substitution of my x100f.
I’ll use it mainly for street photography so I want to get a 1 or 2 nice lenses. What do you think about these options?
* voigtlander 58mm f1.4 nokton
* mitakon 35mm f0.95
* Laowa 9mm f2.8
* meike 35mm f1.7
Fujis:
* 18mm f1.4
* 23mm f2.0 or f1.4
* 35 mm f2.0 or f1.4
* 56mm f1.2
Thanks a lot, have a great week!
Those are all cool. Personally I would take the Fujifilm 35mm f1.4 over the Mitakon 35mm f0.95. I love that Meike 35mm f1.7 for the price, it’s so much fun. I haven’t gotten into Laowa yet but I know they are one of the higher quality Chinese brands, maybe as good as Kipon. Voigtlander lenses are a no brainer. All the other lenses look like great choices but I still don’t have the 18mm so I can’t speak for that lens.
I think you might not use the Voigtlander 58 if you get the Fuji 56. The Fujifilm 56mm is just so good. It has such a special look. I actually just got the full frame Niko Z85mm f1.8 which is pretty much a perfect lens, but there is still something special about the Fuji 56 that I can’t get with the Nikon.
Also, keep an eye out for the Kipon 75mm f2.4 if you’re ever looking for a longer manual focus lens that lens is insane. I’m also going to order the new Kamlan 50mm f1.1 II for review. I hated the first version but this new one might be good. We’ll see.
Here are some more thoughts on those lenses, for other readers that stop by.
Voigtlander – I don’t have this lens but it’s a full frame lens. Unless you have a full frame camera to go with it you’re paying a lot of money to shoot with an APS-C crop on that lens. Also, Leica – M mount lenses have a pretty far minimum focus distance which can get a little annoying when shooting portraits. I should get more of their lenses though, I love what I have of theirs. I have that 35mm f1.7 Ultron and the 15mm they’re so nice. The 15mm is actually pretty good for the APS-C crop because it has a crazy vignetting on full frame. But it’s a little slow at f4.5.
Mitakon 35mm f0.95 – This lens is interesting but I’ve always thought it was overrated. Corner and edge sharpness are not great, rendering isn’t anything jaw dropping, it’s just a cool effect you can get with that 0.95 aperture. The lenses uses 4 plastic elements, like what you would use in reading glasses, which have a higher index of refraction. This is how they were able to get the lens so small. But because of this you don’t get f0.95 light. It pulls in more like an f1.2. Basically the lens is a gimmick but can be fun. Center sharpness is good and it’s fun for portraits and the lens has very little CA which is amazing for something this fast.
Laowa 9mm – I haven’t bought this lens yet but I plan on it, This is an ultra wide and would really only be suitable for landscapes, 9mm is a 13.5 equiv. I don’t often go that wide for landscapes. It’s a very wide lens, difficult for street unless you get in peoples faces. I’ve actually never tried street with this wide of a lens.
Meike 35mm f1.7 – I like this lens, it has a cool rendering. For the price it’s a ton of fun. This has been my favorite cheap lens still to this day. I like it more than the Meike 35mm f1.4 because it holds it’s image quality better at all apertures and at farther distances.
Fujifilm 18mm – One of the few Fujifilm primes I don’t own. If you want a pancake for street go with the 27mm. It’s an easier focal length to work with in my opinion and a pretty underrated lens. I haven’t seen too many people say many great things about the 18 either. Some say it’s Fujis worst lens.
Fujiilm 23mm, 35mm ,56mm, – these are all amazing lenses. Can’t go wrong, try to go with the faster f1.4 lenses if you can. But if your style is very fast paced stick with the f2 for the better AF.
Hope that helps.
Like a couple of others have indicated, I’m new to your website and applaud the thoroughness of your news and thoughts. As a life-long journalist, I respect your transparency and candor in expressing opinion.
I bought a Meike 35mm f1.7 for my Fuji X-T2 but found the mount to be much too tight when attempting to mount it on my X-T2. I was concerned if might damage the Fuji mount and returned the lens. Are Meike mounts a problem? Also, am I correct to assume that Meike and Neewer are made by the same company?
I have a connection with Kipon and Yasuhara, that’s all. I might reach out to a few more companies that have the more expensive lenses if I review more lenses. Not knowing the companies helps me remain a little less bias. Like I bought most of the Kipon lenses and reviewed them before they reached out to me then they asked me to review the 40mm.
As far as Meike lenses go, from what I’ve been told about their setup, they don’t really have the precision gear for high end quality control like you get with Kipon, Kamlan, Laowa so you end with a wild variety of little problems.
You will likely need to return that lens for a different one and your new lens will likely work. You should have no issues mounting the Meike to your X-T2. But I think their mounts do come a little tight sometimes. I have a Meike rear lens cap that won’t fit on my Fujifilm lenses.
Thank you, Alik, for the added perspective that’s helpful in finding a lower priced lens for my X-T2. I’ve ordered another Meike 35mm on the chance the first one had an irregular x-mount. Stay tuned.
In just a short time, I’ve become a fan of your site because of your detailed reviews and informed thoughts. Keep up the good work.
Thanks David.
Thanks for making me aware of the Meike 35mm f1.7. But, for the Fuji X-T2, I’ve found the Neewer 35mm f1.7 seems to have a better X mount for the Fuji. I believe the lenses come out of the same facility in China and are the same price — about US$70.
I went out this week to test the Neewer and was astonished by the crisp, sharp, and dimensional images.
https://uploads.disquscdn.com/images/b9961f6997e3d4b9f0eeb512734cd1edab300f90846eb3b162f7047fecbb0751.jpg
This is great, I’ll pick up that Neewer and let people know the mount is working out better for some people.
So David, I was going through some old articles on my blog that I never published, I totally had a full review of the 50mm f2 almost finished with sample photos and everything. Somehow it totally was deleted from my brain. So I’m going to try to finish that review up when I get all caught up with everything this week. 🙂
Hello Alik,
I also have this lens and the 35 f1.2 7artisans. Do you know if the Meike 35mm f1.7 is a gauss design or a sonnar like the 7artisans? That might explain why they render very differently.
I actually haven’t seen the design of the lens so I’m not sure. It might have come with a diagram in the box but I don’t have the box anymore.
I just received the Neewer version of this lens a day ago, and it is generally believed that there aren’t any real differences except branding. In any event, I think Alik is pretty much spot-on with his analysis. I’m very impressed by the quality build and images produced. Now, more than a year later than Alik’s review I should note that this lens (in the Neewer branding at least) has been updated with a 12-blade diaphragm – and the nearly round bokeh produced from wide open to f/4 tested so far is superb. I suspect it is the same diaphragm as has been used in the f/1.2 lens all along. Good move, I believe.
I was about to point that bit about the aperture reading your comment but then saw you mention it. A lot of times the different brands look like they use the same formulas but they often have different aperture blades for whatever reason. Not really sure why. Maybe to just mix things up. Sometimes I think the look of a 7 blade aperture looks nicer than an 11 blade when stopped down so you get a distinct shape rather than a funky 11 side polygon. But the 11 blade apertures often keep their round shape for longer as you stop down.
Thanks for the comment and the update on the latest from the Neewer lens.
Well, I’m sure that this newer Neewer is 12-blade aperture, and although I haven’t shot it stopped way down, I can confirm that the shape remains very circular all the way to f/22 (which based on some meter checking I’ve done is really f/16). What is really different, though, is unlike the Meike you tested the aperture ring is proper Fuji configuration – as in f/1.7 on the right side as you are looking from above with the lens aimed away! Also, I don’t see any significant sign of coma issues on the sides… Here’s a shot taken at f/2-2.4 – and you can see the bright reflection on the far left (onion ring, but still circular). https://uploads.disquscdn.com/images/4bb8f6685a7be4eb6b6b16e1425a2499879fefe9bdfb7ded79bb0f2906f3b32a.jpg
Very cool. I’m about to order a bunch more lenses. So I’ll make sure this is on the list.
beautiful photos, Alik! this was a very helpful article! I’ve found a refurbished X-T2 which i wanna get, and saw that other fuji lenses will cost me almost the same as the camera! no thanks! haha. I will look into this lens.
Thanks Christina, also check out the TTArtisans lenses, I’ve been liking those a lot lately as well. Haven’t reviewed all fo them yet.
Hi! Have you tried any of the Meike lenses on the nikon z mount? Or other full frame mounts? I am moving from Fujifilm to Nikon Z and I kind of feel like I will miss the cheap manual lens world… just wondering what you would recommend 🙂 all the best and thank you for your wonderful website!!
I have a full frame Meike 35mm f1.7 on Nikon mount. It’s not my favorite. But for APS-C you can adapt any of the FX manual lenses to the Z mount with an adapter, if you got like a Z fc or Z50.
That is my favorite thing about the APS-C system is those small cheap lenses. Nothing quite like it with full frame that is as cheap. You could also use them with a Z7 in APS-C crop mode as well.
Amazing. As to portraits, does shooting wide open with this lens create some blurry backgrounds on MFT?
Hey, really love this lens! Do anybody knows if the meike 50mm 1.7 is actually the same lens but for full frame ?
It is not, it’s a different lens completely. I don’t like it as much.
Thanks for this information. But, what about the video quality? I have the Sony a5100 and I am not sure this lens really good on my camera. I consider myself a newbie in photography 🙂
I have the Meike 25mm f/1.8, Meike 35mm f/1.7 and the Meike 50mm f/1.7. I use all three lenses for astrophotography. The 25mm is also used for street photography when mounted on my Canon EOS M6. A very nice combination. Your photos are really good with the older glass. All three lenses of my lenses were purchased this year and the Meike website states that the glass on their lenses have a Nano Multi-layer Coating. Is this something new that your glass does not have? As far as the Meike 50mm f/1.7 goes: I have this mounted on my Sony a7RM3 for Astro work. Wide open there is such a very tiny bit of light fall-off in the corners. However, this is so tiny that it is actually lost during the stacking process. The 50mm produces tack-sharp results on the Sony camera.