A complete guide to every native Fujifilm lens. Including 3rd party lenses as well as all the cheap Chinese lenses.
A few weeks ago I found myself in Joshua Tree. I’ve been there a few times now but this time around things were going to be different. I had some new lenses, new cameras, and a different eye.
The last few years I’ve been shooting a lot of Landscape and HDR photography and found myself getting stuck with the routine that often comes with those styles. I was just going with the trends and I needed to hit the breaks.
This year I’m trying to shoot everything I can, looking for those incidental stories and moods. It can be challenging to get great shots, but at least this way the results are your own.
2016 will be the year of the Monkey according to the Chinese calendar, so for our holiday card this year we ended up dressing our little one up as a monkey. This is the shot we ended up using for the card although I did manage to get a few more good ones.
Here are a few more shots of the Rainbow Bridge in Long Beach. It’s been such an insanely busy year with the new child that I’ve hardly had time to shoot or even publish photos I’ve been taking.
I haven’t been spending enough time with my Fujinon 10-24mm since it got back from repair. It really is a fun lens to use, especially for landscapes. My only gripe is who ever repaired it left a giant piece of dust on the inside of the rear element that screams at me when shooting anything over f11. I’m so tempted to open the thing up and remove it, but I guess I shouldn’t.
I’m on a photography lockdown right now. My main laptop died this weekend and then my main photo editing drive died as I was moving files around to be able to work on my old MacPro. So I’m stuck until I fix my MacBook Pro and until my Drobo comes this week. Recovering the hard drive will be easy, I hope. It just lost it’s partition. If not, I have backups.
For those that don’t know, the MCEX-11 adapter will convert any lens into a macro lens. It’s a cool little tool, it’s not as good as having a real macro lens, but can let you do fun little projects like this one.
Do you ever wonder if you’re using the most time efficient workflow?
If you’re a Fujifilm shooter and want to use Iridient Developer as your primary photo processing software, or even if you want to use it as a RAW converter, then have a solid and consistent workflow is not only going to save you a lot of time, but it will also make your photo editing process a lot simpler.
In this guide I want to share with you the way I use Iridient Developer to process my Fujifilm RAW files and a file structure to help you stay organized.
A relatively new trend has emerged in the online photography communities over the last few years that involves shooting into the sun or other bright light sources so that the bright light creates star points around it. Also known as sunstars.
I run across a lot of tutorials and tips of people explaining how to do it. Typical they all say about the same thing, shoot high apertures, anywhere from f16 to f22.
While this does usually work, it’s not always the best practice. I find that shooting at higher apertures on many of our high megapixel cameras has a massive impact on overall image quality due to diffraction.
When the Samsung NX1 hit the shelfs, it painted a lot of photographers faces with permanent smiles. And for good reason. The camera is loaded with almost all the features anyone could want with today’s technology and is also one of the best performing mirrorless cameras out right now.
So I rented it for a week to see what all the hype was about. Was I impressed? Yes and no. It feels like a cheap Canon but with a Sony quality.